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OSCR (Oregon Soil Corporation Reactor) - 2007/01/28 08:57I am looking for someone who has made the OSCR (Dan Holcombe's Oregon Soil Corporation Reactor)so I can find out how they like it and get some input from them.
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Russell
User A Fertile Cocoon
Posts: 7
Re:OSCR (Oregon Soil Corporation Reactor) - 2008/08/08 03:44Hey all,
I note no one ever replied to this post. I'm interested in finding out the same thing. is the OSCR a decent start for a small vermiculture business?
My main concern is about longevity of the wooden interior, as being constantly moist is not good even for the best wood.
Any feedback on how well it works and how long it lasts would be appreciated.
Thanks. Russell.
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timnbama
User A Protected Species Earthworm
Posts: 126
Re:OSCR (Oregon Soil Corporation Reactor) - 2008/08/08 09:36I've seen the plans for that but haven't made one. I'm using bins and beds for bait production. You could melt some paraffing wax and brush the inside of the wood with it to seal it. There is also a product that I've used to line the inside of my honey extractor and decapping tank before. It's available from several different beekeeping suppliers. On Betterbee's web site you can find it under beekeeping supplies, honey processing subsection. It's "Camcote Epoxy Paint". When this stuff dries it's very durable and it's food safe.
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Russell
User A Fertile Cocoon
Posts: 7
Re:OSCR (Oregon Soil Corporation Reactor) - 2008/08/08 17:41That coating sounds great. I'll have to see if it's available, or something similar in Australia.
Which is basically bitumen it seems. Given the MSDS says continued contact may be a mild skin irritant, then this may not be a good thing for the worms, although if they stay away from it, I'm not sure if there's be any adverse affect on them.
I'll see if I can find the bee paint here. beekeeping is something else I'd like to try actually, so it might fit well.
The other thing is, the Vermitopia bin design available freely here http://www.ocf.berkeley.edu/~compost/binplans.html#start says it is based on the OSCR. If that's so, I wonder how they're able to post it up as a free plan? But the web site is pretty basic, so I'm not sure if the 56 pages or whatever with the OSCR provides a lot of added value.
Thanks. Russell.
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and180
User A Fertile Cocoon
Posts: 8
Re:OSCR (Oregon Soil Corporation Reactor) - 2008/08/08 22:32I just built an OSCR bin back in April. It turned out okay with my so called building skills. It was my first time I actually built something out of wood. I need to practice cutting straighter lines. The building plans were okay but it took time to understand them without pictures. For the inside of the bin I use 2" insulation board. This helps keep the bedding little cooler and probably will save the wood panels from rotting inside of the bin.I use a mixture of shredded paper and horse manure for the bedding. For the feedstock I use vegetable and fruit scrapes and coffee grounds and sometimes horse manure as the feedstock. My OSCR is outside of my house. I started with 10 pounds of red worms back in April. The worms are doing fine in the bin but it will take time to start to harvest the castings/vermicompost. I am not quite done yet building the OSCR, I still have to build heater rack and some minor touches. I have at least 3 months to go. If I had the money, I rather buy the Worm Wigwam 5-6 for $5000. It is about the same thing except for it made out of metal and plastic and probably last longer.Or the 5 by 8 commercial OSCR bin. I hope this information will help. Andy
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Any info helps. Being in Australia, I don't think the worm wigwam is available here, or anything similar commercially - you either have $100 units here, or $10,000+ - sort of leaves a hole for the middle man.
I don't think I'll need heating cables here, as our climate is mostly warm, although we're have a few days just below freezing here lately, but winter is almost over.
Russell.
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and180
User A Fertile Cocoon
Posts: 8
Re:OSCR (Oregon Soil Corporation Reactor) - 2008/08/09 22:18Russell, under search articles on this website, there are 3 articles about the OSCR. One article name OSCR Review by Pat Reed has a good right up on it.There are 2 photos that might help you. Andy
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Russell
User A Fertile Cocoon
Posts: 7
Re:OSCR (Oregon Soil Corporation Reactor) - 2008/08/10 03:32Yep, I read those Andy. I was looking for opinions from long term users though, as they seemed to just review the unit.
I note the university one they had some info on having to replace rotted parts, just wanted a broader opinion to see if it's a general consensus, or just their particular build.
I'm awaiting feedback from Vermico on even getting the plan sent to Australia, but am yet to hear from them, so not even sure what hoops I have to jump through yet. If I was a welder, I'd make a steel frame or it. Maybe I can get a friend to help in that dept.
Russell.
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palm1953
User A Fertile Cocoon
Posts: 1
Re:OSCR (Oregon Soil Corporation Reactor) - 2008/10/25 13:20A couple years ago I got excited by the Berkley continuous flow design. I welded a rectangular frame 48"x42" of 2" angle iron, drilled 3/8" holes every 2" on the long side, put 2 coats of epoxy paint over the whole thing (cue tips to coat the inside of the holes!), strung it up with polypro. rope and used very dense, expensive tropical hardwood 1" thick for the box (I think 2" redwood would do well too, I have 2- 5'x10' redwood worm bins on the ground that are over 15 years old and they still have a few more years left tho are showing deterioration). Box is lag screwed to 4x4 treated posts, frame sits on vertical 8" lengths of 4x4 carriage bolted to 4x4 post. Whole thing sits on 25-1 foot square cinderblock type pavers, under a huge Brazilian Pepper tree. 2 pieces of 3/4" ply for a snug lid. There is no hint or sign of rust or rot. It has been used continuously at a grammar school composting food, straw and shredded paper for 2 years. The compost falls out the bottom. It never gets more than 5 of 6" deep at the edges inside the box (more in center because of the rope sag). Have to monitor the temp. cause the aerobic compost can exceed 100 degrees. We like to keep it between 80 and 90 by limiting food inputs. It works better and takes more input in the winter because the weather is cooler, this is in Santa Barbara, Ca. Occasional trouble with rats, framed 1/4" hardware cloth screen around bottom solves this. We keep it pretty damp all the time, but not so the fall through compost gets slimy. Unbelievable worm populations. Seems to work most efficiently alternately feeding the perimeter sides and then the middle, monitoring the temp. before feeding, My next frame will be made of 1" or 1-1/4" galvanized water pipe using conventional T and elbow and union fittings, double epoxy painted, and wrap the rope around the pipe. Drilling and painting those holes was a big pain.
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