Home arrow New Forum Topics
Newsflash
Sign up for a free account to take advantage of all the new features and to be able to post in the forums. There have been over 33,000 logged entries in the forums since 1998.  Check out the Fun and Magazine Stores.
 
Welcome, 1 kB
WormDigest Forum  


Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/08 10:45 Hi folks, I should have my first Bin going in a few days. If I do everything right what can I expect?
How long do they take to mature?
How often do they mate? (if that's the right term)
I'm starting off with around two humdred, what can I expect to see in say six months?
  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Re:Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/08 11:40 The answers to these questions will depend on the type of worms you have. Tell what you are going to get and then some of the experts here can better answer your questions.

Glenda
Glenda

I always wanted to be somebody; I guess I should have been more specific.
  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Re:Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/08 12:01 Sue recently posted this:

Sunday, 11 September 2005
by Kelly Slocum

This worm species is naturalized to the southern US. Any worm system in soil contact or that is fed material that has been in soil contact in areas where P. excavatus is common is likely to innoculate their system with this worm species. If conditions in the bed and/or system management are favorable to P. excatus there is the potential for them to outcompete E. fetida. Their breeding and growth rate far exceeds even that of our little redworms!

The reality is that few worm systems are supporting just one worm species. Virtually all worm bins that are using E. fetida worms, for instance, support significant numbers of a different species called Eisenia andreii. The two worm species can only be distinguished from one another by molecular investigation, however. There is no way for we common folk to tell the difference, and it's not important that we do in this case since the two species perform and behave virtually identically. The point is simply that few if any worm beds are truly pure cultures of just one worm species.

If your worm sales are to local folks who want to use them for vermicomposting barnyard waste then having P. excavatus in your culture is irrelevent. They do the same thing in the natural environment that E. fetida does, and are, clearly, well adapted to your area. Further, chances are these worms are going to get into the system being used by the person who buys their worms from you, so taking extra steps to keep P. exavatus out of your beds would be a lot of work for no return.

If you intend to ship worms around the country, however, you will want to try to keep P. excavatus out of the system. This is done by keeping your beds away from the soil and either choosing feedstocks that have not been in soil contact or hot composting the feedstock to destroy any worm eggs that might be present before feeding it to your worm beds.

Getting P. excavatus out our an existing mixed culture bed is a bit of a challenge, as you guessed. It might be best to simply begin specialized E. fetida beds on their own, and rebuild your population using careful management that prevents P. excavatus contamination.

Perionyx excavatus is not a "nuisance worm" as some have suggested, but it is a more temperatmental species than our delightfully tolerant E. fetidas. The problem is not with the worms, but with our understanding of worm system management in varying environments.

Here are the reproduction rates (also thanks to Kelly) of a few species:

Following are the maximum reproducive rates of a few worm species under ideal conditions, and their environmental requirements:

Eisenia fetida (foetida)/Eisenia andrei Common names: redworm, tiger worm, manure worm

Maximum reproduction under ideal condtions:

3.8 cocoons per adult per week
83.2% hatching success rate
3.3 hatchlings per cocoon
Net reproduction of 10.4 young per adult per week

Maximum growth rate under ideal conditions:
32-73 days to cocoon hatch
53-76 days to sexual maturity
85-149 days from egg to maturity

Temperature requirements (?F):
Minimum 38?
Maximum 95?
Ideal range 70-80?

Heat tolerance is dependant on moisture level E. fetida is extremely tolerant of environmental fluctuation and handling and is the species identified by research as the most effective for vermicomposting in the widest range of feedstocks and environments.

Perionyx excavatus Common names: blue worm, Indian blue, Malaysian blue, Spike tail.

Maximum reproduction under ideal condtions:
19.5 cocoons per adult per week
90.7% hatching success rate
1.1 hatchlings per cocoon
Net reproduction of 19.4 young per adult per week

Maximum growth rate under ideal conditions:
16-21 days to cocoon hatch
29-55 days to sexual maturity
45-76 days from egg to maturity

Temperature requirements (?F):
Minimum 45-50?
Maximum 90?
Ideal range 70-80?

Heat tolerance is dependant on moisture level P. excavatus cannot tolerate cold temps for even brief periods of time and does not tolerate environmental fluctuation or handling. It is most frequently used in tropical regions where it is naturalized and is found naturally only in areas along the gulf coast of the US. If used in most areas of north America this worm requires temperature controlled environments.

Eudrilus eugeniae Common names: African nightcrawler, giant nightcrawler

Maximum reproduction under ideal condtions:
3.6 cocoons per adult per week
81% hatching success rate
2.3 hatchlings per cocoon
Net reproduction of 6.7 young per adult per week

Maximum growth rate under ideal conditions:
13-27 days to cocoon hatch
32-95 days to sexual maturity
43-122 days from egg to maturity

Temperature requirements (?F):
Minimum 45?
Maximum 95?
Ideal 75-82?

Heat tolerance is dependant on moisture level. This worm species is a very large worm that is often grown for bait. It requires a temperature controlled environment in most areas of north America as it cannot tolerate cold for even brief periods and does not tolerate handling.

Eisenia hortensis (Dendrobaena veneta) Common names: Belgian nightcrawler, European nightcrawler

Maximum reproduction under ideal condtions:
1.6 cocoons per adult per week
81.2% hatching success rate
1.1 hatchlings per cocoon
Net reproduction of 1.4 young per adult per week

Maximum growth rate under ideal conditions:
40-128 days to cocoon hatch
57-86 days to sexual maturity
97-214 days from egg to maturity

Temperature requirements (?F):
Minimum 38?
Maximum 90?
Ideal 60-70?

Heat tolerance is dependant on moisture level. This worm is very tolerant of environmental fluctuation and handling, but has a slower reproductive rate and requires very high moisture levels, relative to other worm species.
WormMainea.com
  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Re:Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/09 20:09 I'm currently making arangements to buy from a worm farmer. I guess that's the best way to get fresh worms. But untill then I'm using worms bought from a large hardware store, 5Ltrs/500 worms (cardboard box), tigers and blues. I've made up well ventilated trays and keep them in the dark of my garage, should they be outside? The garage may be to cold, I live in a cool climate.

  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Re:Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/09 22:16 Sorry about the Mad Scientist Pic, I thought it would have loaded like an Avatar... lol. However, having found this feature I'm wondering and would like to see other peoples bins or setups, can someone load a pic of their setup, I like and really need a few ideas.
  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Re:Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/10 07:35 Absolutely! You can & should keep them inside in cold climates. In cold climates, you'll most likley lose the worms if you leave them outside-- see the temperature tolerances for various species in Kelly's article (posted in this thread).

Keeping worms indoors is the only way to vermicompost year round in cold climates. Check out my site for pics of making a bin, or check out Boreal Wormer's setup-- see links on my page.

Good luck!
WormMainea.com
  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Re:Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/10 10:01 Thanks, I went to your site and it helped a lot. I'm going to apologise now for all my future dumb questions but then the only dumb question is the one you don't ask. There's some logic there somewhere. Well, it appears I started off on the wrong bin setup. What I've done so far is bought some mushroom compost and added it to my bin after lining the bottom with news paper (moistened). Then I added my worms who quickly ducked for cover, on this I added some food scraps (lettuce,tomatoe,cucumber and banana peel) which I blended into a green sludge in my food processor. Then covered all this with a plastic black sheet. Did I need to use the mushroom compost or would have just using shreded paper with the food sludge been sufficient. I feel like a fish outof water but I can see how this whole thing can become very addictive.
  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Re:Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/10 10:04 Thanks, I went to your site and it helped a lot. I'm going to apologise now for all my future dumb questions but then the only dumb question is the one you don't ask. There's some logic there somewhere. Well, it appears I started off on the wrong bin setup. What I've done so far is bought some mushroom compost and added it to my bin after lining the bottom with news paper (moistened). Then I added my worms who quickly ducked for cover, on this I added some food scraps (lettuce,tomatoe,cucumber and banana peel) which I blended into a green sludge in my food processor. Then covered all this with a plastic black sheet. Did I need to use the mushroom compost or would have just using shreded paper with the food sludge been sufficient. I feel like a fish outof water but I can see how this whole thing can become very addictive.
  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Re:Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/10 10:28 Did I need to use the mushroom compost or would have just using shreded paper with the food sludge been sufficient.
I do not want to buy one more thing, so I use whatever I have on hand. Shredded newspaper works very well for bedding. I keep a good 3" layer on top of the food I add, in my indoor bins.
Below you will find links to some of my bins and how to build.
For an on-ground cinderblock bin:
http://photobucket.com/albums/y209/redhen/projects/

This set is how I set up a Can'O Worms tiered system:
http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y209/redhen/COW%20Unwrapped/?sc=6
Susan Quinby-Honer
redhen@nc.rr.com
Starve the Landfill...Feed the Earth.
  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Re:Prolific Breeders - 2006/05/10 11:30 I am with Susan... I try to keep from spending any more money on my hobby. I haven't bought anything to add to the bins-- just kitchen scraps and shredded newspaper. Worm composting can be quite an addictive pursuit... WormMainea.com
  | | The administrator has disabled public write access.
Site and contents are © 2008 EarthWormDigest.org. All Rights Reserved.
Earth Worm Digest is a Public Non-Profit 501(c)3 Organization.
1455 East 185th Street, Cleveland, OH 44110
Office telephone and fax 216-531-5374