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Glorious Mud
2/10/2005
The Journal (Newcastle, England)
By Peter Surridge
Peter Surridge gets down to the basics of gardening success.
Two ingredients are among the essentials for successful gardening; soil and
water.
But they must blend in particular proportions. Too much soil and nothing
much will grow, too much water and you'll be up to your ankles in mud.
Think of mud and a string of uncomplimentary adages spring to mind ...
mud-slinging ... his name is mud.
We instinctively avoid the stuff as totally undesirable. And, in this
winter's deluges, that has been understandable. However, we are wrong to hold
it in contempt because mud can be great for growing.
Physically, all types of soil consist chiefly of three things: ground-down
particles of rock, minute pieces of organic matter which is decaying plant
material and numerous micro-organisms.
The longer it has been lying around on Earth, the more muddy soil will
become so to help you make the most of it, I have given a `mud rating' from
1-5. Three is ideal.
SANDY SOIL has a mud rating of only one. Just an hour or two after a
downpour, it is possible to work the ground without getting unduly dirty boots.
It is also possible to mow a lawn within an hour or two, especially if using a
hover-mower. This kind of earth is young in evolutionary terms and is made up
of relatively large mineral particles which hold little water, so it drains
quickly and is likely to dry out during droughts. As the water trickles
through, it also washes out natural nutrients which are, in any case, low in
this type of soil.
Despite these shortcomings, plenty of plants will thrive in these poor
conditions provided they are fed at least twice a year and watered in dry
spells. They include shrubs such as the daisy-bush, Brachyglottis laxifolia
(pictured), euphorbia, berberis and spiraea, and perennials like hellebores,
lupins and oriental poppies. Sandy and gravelly soils need to be made muddier.
So dig in liberal amounts of farmyard manure or garden compost every autumn or
early spring. This is particularly important if growing fruit and vegetables.
To improve fertility, rake in a fertilizer such as National Growmore or
blood, fish and bone once a year, a month before the main planting time, at the
rate of 60g per square metre (2oz per square yard). For better crops of fruit,
peas and beans, apply a liberal sprinkling of sulphate of potash around the
roots annually, or the organic equivalents of seaweed meal or rock potash.
Applications of lime might also be necessary if the soil is acidic ( hoe in
80g per square metre (3oz per square yard) once every three years, but not in
an area where potatoes are to be grown in the same season because it encourages
scab, an unsightly potato skin disease.
LOAMY SOIL is every gardener's ideal. Depending on whether it is light,
heavy or medium loam, the mud rating varies from two to four. The perfect
medium loam (mud rating three) is dark in colour and has a crumbly structure.
It drains well enough to avoid becoming waterlogged yet manages to retain
moisture and nutrients ( perfect for helping most plants to flourish.
Loams usually contain a great deal of organic matter and, therefore, a
lively population of earthworms. Keep them healthy by incorporating manure or
compost every two years and giving a light dressing of general fertiliser each
year.
CLAY SOIL has my top mud rating of five which means about 5lb of clay on each boot in wet
weather. It is the oldest type of soil, comprised of the tiniest particles. These
retain water extremely effectively and contain a high level of mineral
nutrients so, once a plant is established, it can take advantage of that supply
of food and moisture. That's the good news.
The bad news is the particles are so tightly packed together they can
exclude air from the roots, thus limiting growth.
It takes back-breaking effort to get the full benefit of the plant food
contained in clay. Add large amounts of any kind of organic material ( farmyard
manure, garden compost ( and of grit which opens up the soil texture.
However, there are plants suited to a muddy lifestyle the kinds which grow
happily at the edges of ponds, for instance, hostas, irises, and primulas.
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