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Written by Administrator
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Sunday, 11 September 2005 |
for Vermicomposting on a Modern Dairy...or Horse...or Hobby Farm
by Jim Jensen, from our issue #18
BENEFITS: Farmers and others will benefit from several advantages of this method:
- It is simple; no special training is required.
- Low, low, low start-up cost—it uses existing equipment and available space.
- No turning, no odors—the worms do all the processing, naturally.
- The resulting vermicompost, rich in worm castings, is more valuable
to farmers, landscapers, and home gardeners than raw manure. It
provides stable organic matter, conserves moisture, improves soil
conditions in many ways, and enhances the growth and yields of most
types of plants. (Current market value is upwards of $30-$90 per cubic
yard.)
STEP 1: WINDROW PREPARATION
A windrow is a long row of material (e.g., 4 to 10 feet wide, by 2 to 3
feet high, by some appropriate length). The length can vary depending
on the availability of gently sloping space, ease of material handling,
or other factors. Longer windrows will cost a little more for supplies.
To start a windrow, spread a 12 to 18 inch layer of manure solids, with
or without bedding, along one end of your available space. Innoculate
the windrow with high-quality redworms—Eisenia fetida (from a breeding
or active pile). For this first row, apply up to 1 lb. redworms per sq.
ft. of windrow surface area. Add 2 to 3 inch layers of manure every
week (3 to 6 inch layers in colder weather) to gradually increase the
depth of the windrow. Each windrow should be large enough to handle
these thin layers of material each week. With a thermometer, make sure
that the layers of feed do not get hotter than 35°C (~95°F).
Remember the following:
- This plan is for farm-scale volumes of manure. Larger volumes can
help protect the worms from adverse conditions and predators. Enclosed
bins are still recommended for home- or school-based vermicomposting.
- A hard or concrete surface is easier to work on, especially in wet weather, and may even be required to control runoff.
As you extend the windrow (Step 2), leave a way to reach the finished castings.
- This method does not generate high heat. This is acceptable for
many types of dairy and horse manure. If heat treatment is needed to
control pathogens or weeds, simply precompost the material before
feeding it to the worms.
STEP 2: EXTENDING THE WINDROW
After the first windrow is established and layered to around 2 to 3
feet thick, it is time to extend the windrow. Add the next layers of
manure along one side, directly next to and against, the first windrow.
The worms in the first pile will gradually migrate toward the fresher
feed. Continue adding the fresh manure alongside until you have formed
a second complete windrow. Repeat this step, extending the number of
windrows to the limits of your need or space. The worms will continue
migrating laterally through the windrows, leaving rich vermicompost in
their wake.
STEP 3: MAKING QUALITY CASTINGS
Redworms tolerate a range of environmental conditions before suffering
serious losses. Nonetheless, providing the optimum conditions for worm
health and growth can assure maximum decomposition and transformation
of organic wastes. Research from around the world and practical
considerations suggest the following optimum conditions for redworms:
- Temperature: 15 to 20°C (60 to 70°F)
- Moisture content: 65 to 80 percent
- Oxygen requirement: aerobicity
- pH: > 5 and < 9
Keep the worms well-fed and comfortable, and they’ll make quality
castings in the decomposed manure/bedding. Their active burrowing
habits naturally aerate the windrows, providing good control of odors.
Leaving each windrow for a little longer time before harvesting assures
the vermicompost will be more broken down, more stable, and have more
worm castings present.
STEP 4: MOISTURE AND IRRIGATION
Moisture is also critical to the well-being of your working worms. A
simple method for applying moisture on a farm is through a sprinkling
hose or other sprinkling/misting irrigation system. Run it the length
of your windrow. Try to moisten evenly, i.e., keep the surface moist,
but don’t let the bottom become soggy.
STEP 5: WINDROW COVER
A suitable compost cover, placed over the active windrow, is critical
to preserving valuable nutrients in the vermicompost. Rather than
nutrients leaching out and possibly contaminating ground or surface
waters, they should be retained in the vermicompost in ways that are
valuable for plants. Various types of tarps or fabrics could be used to
shed excess rainfall and prevent leaching, while maintaining aerobic
conditions.
Covering the windrows of finished castings prior to use also retains nutrients and helps prevent weeds from spreading.
STEP 6: HARVESTING
Because the worms concentrate in the freshest, most active windrow,
after 2 to 6 months the first windrow and each subsequent windrow will
become ready to use. It can be spread with a loader or manure spreader.
Coarse material, if any, can be screened out to produce a fine,
marketable soil amendment.
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Last Updated ( Sunday, 18 September 2005 )
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