|
Lateral Movement Bins Intro & Review |
|
|
Written by Administrator
|
|
Sunday, 11 September 2005 |
Lateral movement vermicomposting systems are nothing new, being
commonly used in the 1970s in homemade worm beds. Because it was (and
is) a simple method for separating worms from vermicompost, many
vermiculturists would divide their worm beds in half, usually by
placing a piece of screen or a board between the left and right sides
of the bin. One side would be fed until the worms had processed the
majority of the material. The system was then fed on the other side of
the divider, which was eventually removed, allowing the worms to move
into the newer material over a period of weeks. Once the worms had
transferred to the newer material the divider was replaced and the
finished vermicompost removed, without taking significant numbers of
worms with it. The empty side could then be rebedded awaiting the next
vermicompost harvest.
Many home vermicomposters still use this concept for separating their
worms and vermicompost, on a slightly more simplified scale. Once the
worms finish the majority of material in the bin, the resulting
vermicompost is scraped to one side and the empty side rebedded with
fresh bedding. The newly bedded side is then the only one into which
new feedstock is added, eventually encouraging the worms to move out of
the finished vermicompost, which can then be removed for use in the
garden.
One of the great advantages to lateral movement systems is that the
vermicompost is left in the system for an extended period of time,
allowing it to be thoroughly worm worked and "cured". This ensures a
nicely matured finished product. It also ensures that the worms will
remain comfortable in the system as there is a significant quantity of
vermicompost in which they can harbor if the fresh material is not
microbially active enough to be ideal.
It was once believed that worms were less efficient in this type of
system as vermicomposters were told that worms have a natural tendency
for upward movement. This is something of an overstatement, however.
Anecic worms (soil burrowing species) have a natural tendency to move
upward through their environment, but epigeic worms (composting
species) will move happily in any direction in which they can find food
and shelter.
Lateral movement systems have survived the test of time because they
are based on a sound concept. They are best used for small to medium
waste volumes as they require more surface area than some of the other
design concepts, but are simple to manage and have been effectively
growing worms and processing organic waste for many years.
Possible challenges to lateral movement systems
Size: This is a small unit, best suited to households of no more
than four. Also, because it is not insulated, it is best to bring it
indoors during cold weather.
Odors: During the precomposting phase (when feeding into one of
the containers, before worms have been introduced) if the system is
overfed or meat or dairy products are added, there is the potential for
odors.
Advantages of lateral movement systems
Neat and Tidy: The unit is compact and attractive, well designed
for indoor use. It is raised up on legs for ease of access and the
enclosed liquid collection container prevents spills and does not
attract small fly species.
Ease of Harvesting: The harvesting method is about the easiest we've ever seen!
Specifications:
Each bin: 13" square
2.3 ft2 area per bin
Together: 26" x 13" x 19"H
Kit Includes:
- 2 Lbs redworm
- Worm-A-RooTM Bin
- 32-page instruction booklet
- Bedding Block, VHS
- Instructional Videotape
- Carbon Filters for Odor Elimination
- Worm Tea Drain Kit
- Kitchen Compost Carrier
Costs:
Above Package: $169.00 + $24.00 S&H
Without Worms:$149.00 + $19 S&H
With 1 lb. Worms: $159.00 + $24.95 S&H
Academic/Non-Profit: $139.00 + $24.95 S&H
Outdoor Worm-A-Roo without Worms: $179.00 + $45.00 S&H
Outdoor Worm-A-Roo with 4 lbs. Worms: $199.00 + $65.00 S&H
Notes: Worms will be sent with the unit, or 6-9 days after the unit
arrives. Holds 9 gallons water and 40 Lbs finished vermicompost &
castings.
Worm-A-RooTM Review
by Kelly Slocum
I recieved my Worm-A-Roo in August of 1999 from Ecconet in Yakima,
Washington. The unit was shipped to me partly assembled, along with a
tupperware container to collect liquid, a brick of coir fiber and a
32-page instruction manual. The assembly instructions were easily
understood and were, in fact, primarily conveyed through photographs.
This makes them easily understandable to anyone, including non-English
speaking individuals, a fact that I appreciate.
My first impression of the Worm-A-Roo unit itself was also very good.
The unit is sturdy, attractive and very compact. All the pieces fit
together well, leaving me feeling that the unit is well made. I did
find the lids to each bin a bit difficult to remove and replace quickly
because of the positioning of the migration device levers, but this was
little more than a fleeting annoyance that I no longer notice.
I chose to set the bin on my shaded patio, near the door, where it was
easily accessible and under the eaves of my home, where it will be
protected from our Pacific Northwest rains. I bedded it with the coir
fiber provided, introduced two pounds of Eisenia fetida worms and a
pound of veggie wastes, tossed in a handful of garden soil and covered
everything with two inches of dampened, shredded paper, as the
manufacturer suggested in the instructions. I then left the system
alone for 4 days to give the worms some time to spread out and become
accustomed to their new digs.
After the initial feeding it was my intent to feed about 3 pounds of
feedstock per week for the first few feedings to allow the worms time
to work up to my entire household output of food scraps. However, after
the second feeding I found the worms were ready to take on more food,
as they were already active in the most recently added material. My
Worm-A-Roo currently handles an average of 4-5 pounds of feedstock per
week. The surface area is one square foot in the working bin. The unit
alone is very lightweight. When both sides are full, as mine nearly
are, I have no difficulty lifting the entire unit.
After five weeks it was time to stop feeding the first bin and allow
the worms to process the material already in place. I began layering my
feedstock with the shredded paper in the empty bin, as instructed by
the manufacturer, and left the worms in the first bin alone to work
their magic. There were no unpleasant odors associated with the
precomposting material in bin two. After two weeks I opened the
migration devices between the two bins to allow the worms to move into
the precomposting feedstock in the second bin. I anticipated it would
take them several weeks to move into the newer side, but found the
majority of worms had shifted sides within about 15 days. Sow bugs,
mites and fruit flies (I do not manage my outdoor bins to prevent fruit
flies) appeared in the fresh material after three days. I then closed
the migration devices and left the first bin, now full of vermicompost
and harboring only a few worms, alone while actively feeding the worms
in bin two.
When bin two became full I poured out all but 4" of the finished
material from bin one to begin the process over. The one bin was very
light - my 10-year-old daughter could lift it. I was delighted to find
no recognizable material remaining in the finished vermicompost from
bin one. There was roughly 1/4 pound of small worms in this material.
My experience with the Worm-A-Roo has been overwhelmingly positive. I
find management of the system to be uncomplicated and harvesting to be
delightfully simple. It is a unit I recommend! |
|
Last Updated ( Sunday, 18 September 2005 )
|
|
|
